MARMOTA Broad Peak 2010: Cieľ expedície
About expedition


The objective of "MARMOTA Broad Peak 2010" expedition is to reach the summit of the 12th highest peak of the world - Broad Peak (8047 m). The western-pillar climbing route leading from the Godwin-Austen glacier is called "Austrian route" because of Austrian climbers, who used it on June 9, 1957 when they reached the summit of the peak as the first people on the Earth. This climbing route is usually labeled as "normal" what means that it is the easiest route to climb (although word "easy" is very seldom used when speaking about an eight-thousander).


The expedition time plan
:

16.06. - 17.06. Flight: Vienna-Doha-Islamabad, arrival at Islamabad
18.06. - 19.06. Formalities in Islamabad and briefing in the Ministry of Tourism. Trek preparation and trek to the base camp placed under Broad Peak
20.06. - 22.06. Transfer: Islamabad - Chilas - Skardu - Askoli (travelling by car on a legendary Karakoram Highway)
23.06. - 28.06. Trek: Askoli - Johla - Paiyu - Urdukas - Goro II - Concordia - Broad Peak Base Camp
29.06. - 28.07. Climbing period on Broad Peak, an attempt to reach the summit of the peak through gradual building of high altitude camps C1, C2 and C3
29.07. - 01.08. Trek: Broad Peak Base Camp - Ali Camp - Gondogoro La - Hispung - Shaitcho - Hushe
02.08. - 03.08. Transfer: Hushe - Skardu - Islamabad (once again by jeep on Kakakoram Highway)
04.08. - 05.08. Flight: Islamabad - Doha - Vienna, return home

The plan of the trekking group is the same as the plan of the advance group with the exception of 30 day stay on Broad Peak.


Broad Peak

BROAD PEAK

Broad Peak is located in one of the most remote regions of Pakistan on the borders with China and in the immediate vicinity of majestic K2 just above the place where the Godwin-Austen glacier meet the Baltoro glacier. This is how you should describe the place where Broad Peak is located. The name "Broad Peak" fits perfectly as the peak is pyramid-shaped with 1,5 long and almost perfectly flat summit. In reality, there are 3 summits of Broad Peak – Broad Peak North (7.550 m), Broad Peak Central (8.016 m) and the main summit (8.047 m). Broad Peak is also called Faichan Kangrí (name of the peak in the local Baltí language – the meaning is also "broad peak")

So far, 381 climbers from 36 countries of the world have reached the summit of Broad Peak and 4 of them climbed Broad Peak more than once. Sadly, Broad Peak has claimed 21 lives and the interesting thing about Broad Peak is that in 2009 nobody reached its summit,what currently makes Broad Peak the longest unclimbed eight-thousander.


Hermann Buhl

FOLLOWING FOOTSTEPS OF HERMANN BUHL

The name of the Austrian climber Hermann Buhl became legendary even though his career ended untimely – he died tragically when he was 32. It was him who in 1957 reached the summit of Broad peak as first human in the world along with his co-climbers Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller. Austrians gradually built 3 high altitude camps on their way to the top – the last one in the altitude of 6.950 m (they used the western-pillar climbing route). On June 9, 1957 two pairs set out: Schmuck with Wintersteller and Buhl with Diemberger. The first pair reached the summit, the second one was advancing too slowly. In the altitude about 7.900 meters Diemberger made an agreement with Buhl that he will try to reach the summit alone and that Buhl will wait for him. Diemberger reached the summit and on his way down he met Buhl which decided to try to reach the summit too. They both reached the summit shortly before the sunset and they had to climb down during the night.

Herman Buhl also holds primacy for being the first man that climbed Nanga Parbat (8125 m) in 1953. But the auspicious climbing career of the young Austrian ended untimely by his tragic death on Chogolisa (7.665 m) only 18 days after his successful first-ascent of Broad Peak.


Peter Hámor

SLOVAKS ON BROAD PEAK

During the time, there were seven expeditions attempting to reach the summit of Broad Peak with Slovak presence. The first expedition eventuated in 1998 (led by Vlado Štrba), the others 2 years ago. During this relatively short time two Slovaks reached the summit of Broad Peak - in 2006 Peter Hámor from Poprad and Pavol Lupták in 2007. Both of them reached the summit via a classical Austrian route. In 2008, the third Slovak was very close to the reaching of the summit and he probably reached it although Dodo Kopold could not credibly recognize if he reached the highest point of the peak or not as he did a night climb. But Broad Peak also claimed one Slovak life - Vlado Plulík died in 2008 during the descent.

The only thing left is to wish good luck to members of the expedition on their far and difficult journey. We also wish them beautiful weather and friendly mood in the group during the expedition so we should all meet in the beginning of August and write down some new names to the "successful Slovaks on Broad Peak" column at the "Slovak chronicle of Himalayan success".